Reviewed by Hally — Certified Skincare Formulator & Repair Specialist
Every Lakū article is reviewed for FDA-compliant language and melanin-rich skin accuracy.
Not every dark spot is the same, and treating the wrong kind with the wrong routine is why most "fade creams" disappoint. Here's how to tell what you're actually looking at — and which Lakū routine matches.
Quick overview: three common types
On melanin-rich skin, three conditions account for the vast majority of "dark spot" concerns:
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — spots from past acne, ingrown hairs, bug bites, or friction
- Melasma — larger patches, usually on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip, triggered by hormones and sun
- Solar lentigines (sun spots) — flat, clearly defined brown spots from cumulative UV exposure
They look similar at a glance. The difference matters because each responds to different treatment protocols.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
What it looks like: Small-to-medium flat spots in the exact shape of a past injury. If you picked a pimple last month and there's a dark spot where it was, that's PIH. If you had an ingrown hair and there's now a lingering dark mark, also PIH.
Where it appears: Anywhere skin was inflamed. On melanin-rich skin, even minor inflammation (allergic reaction, razor irritation, cystic acne) can leave PIH.
Color tone: Usually a warm brown matching your surrounding skin tone, just darker. Sharp edges matching the shape of the original lesion.
Why it's so common on melanin-rich skin: Melanocytes respond to inflammation by producing up to 4x more melanin than on lighter skin. This is genetic, not a flaw — but it's why even minor breakouts leave a lingering mark.
What fades PIH best:
- Tranexamic acid — blocks the activation signal that starts the PIH response
- Niacinamide (5%) — blocks pigment transfer from melanocytes
- Liposomal turmeric / curcumin — inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production
- Azelaic acid (10–20%) — targets PIH specifically, also calms active inflammation
Realistic timeline: 12–16 weeks for full fade. Longer for older PIH (years old).
Melasma
What it looks like: Larger, irregularly shaped patches — not single spots. Often symmetric: if it shows up on one cheek, there's usually a matching patch on the other. Forehead, upper lip ("the mustache"), cheeks, and nose bridge are the most common sites.
Where it appears: Strictly on sun-exposed areas. Never on areas that don't see the sun.
Color tone: Can range from light tan to deep brown. Edges are less defined than PIH — they blend into surrounding skin gradually.
Why it happens: Hormones + sun. Most common triggers:
- Pregnancy ("the mask of pregnancy")
- Hormonal birth control
- Hormone replacement therapy
- Thyroid issues
- High UV exposure
Melasma is notoriously stubborn. It requires a long game.
What helps melasma:
- SPF every single day, without fail (this is the single most important step)
- Tranexamic acid (oral + topical, oral requires a doctor)
- Azelaic acid (safe during pregnancy)
- Niacinamide + licorice root extract (glabridin)
- Professional options with a dermatologist: low-energy lasers, specific chemical peels, prescription triple-combination creams
What makes melasma worse:
- Skipping SPF even once a week
- Aggressive exfoliation (re-triggers inflammation)
- Heat (not just UV — sauna, steam, even prolonged cooking over a hot stove can trigger flares)
Realistic timeline: Melasma is often managed, not "cured." Expect 3–6 months for significant lightening, and ongoing maintenance.
Solar Lentigines (Sun Spots / Age Spots)
What it looks like: Flat, clearly defined brown spots with even pigmentation and sharp edges. Usually round or oval.
Where they appear: Areas of cumulative sun exposure — upper cheeks, temples, back of hands, chest, shoulders.
Color tone: Medium to dark brown. Uniform across the entire spot (no variation within one spot).
Why they happen: Cumulative UV damage. Years of sun exposure eventually causes melanocytes in specific spots to produce excess melanin permanently. Unlike PIH (which is reactive), sun spots are a chronic pigment overproduction.
What fades sun spots:
- Retinoids (retinol, tretinoin) — most effective, cycle skin cells so pigment lifts faster
- Vitamin C (15–20%) — antioxidant + gentle tyrosinase inhibitor
- Alpha arbutin (1–2%) — gentler hydroquinone alternative
- Sun protection — to prevent new ones
What to expect: 8–16 weeks for noticeable lightening. Deeper sun spots may need dermatological intervention (laser) to fully clear.
How to tell which you have
A quick self-check:
- Did it appear after a pimple, ingrown hair, or other irritation? → PIH
- Are the spots symmetric, large, and mostly on sun-exposed central face? → Melasma
- Are they round, sharply defined, and on cheeks, hands, or chest from years of sun? → Solar lentigines
- Not sure? → See a dermatologist. Dermatoscopy (a handheld magnifier) can distinguish them in 30 seconds.
You can also have more than one at the same time. PIH + melasma is a common combination, especially in people in their 30s and 40s.
Lakū's approach
Our Turmeric Face Cream is specifically formulated to work on both PIH and the sun-damage overlap that's most common on melanin-rich skin. The liposomal curcumin, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid combination hits the three most common pigment pathways without triggering the inflammation that causes more PIH.
For melasma specifically, we pair it with our Radiance SPF 60 — because without rigorous daily sunscreen, no fade cream can outpace the re-trigger.
Take the Skin Quiz
Not sure which routine matches your skin? Take our 90-second Skin Quiz and we'll match you with a personalized three-product routine based on your specific concerns.
FAQ
Can I have both PIH and melasma at the same time?
Yes — very common, especially for people over 30. The PIH component fades faster than the melasma component with consistent routine + SPF. Treat them simultaneously with the same melanin-safe actives.
Why does my hyperpigmentation get worse in summer?
UV exposure activates melanocytes, which re-stimulates pigment production in both PIH and melasma. Summer requires stricter SPF reapplication (every 2 hours if outdoors).
Is melasma permanent?
Not necessarily. Hormone-triggered melasma often improves dramatically after the hormonal trigger is removed (post-pregnancy, stopping birth control). Sun-triggered melasma is managed with rigorous SPF + gentle brightening actives.
Can I use retinol on melanin-rich skin to fade spots?
Yes — at low concentration (0.1–0.3% retinol, not prescription tretinoin to start), used 2–3 nights per week, ideally starting after the skin has been calmed with niacinamide and barrier support for a few weeks first. Always pair with morning SPF.
What about hydroquinone?
Effective short-term (under 3 months, prescribed by a derm) but can cause paradoxical darkening (exogenous ochronosis) with long-term use on melanin-rich skin. We don't use it in our formulations for this reason.
